Monday, November 29, 1999

The high for high-flyers

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You never realise how important a drink is till you really need one. The recent volcanic assertions by Mother Nature to remind us that we still only and utterly live by her mercies made more people at airport lounges reach out for bottles than a convention of homeless people in Vegas.What you serve then becomes crucially important. Not just important as a third pair of shoes are important, but more as 'life-and-death' important. A bit of dramatic exaggeration there, but nothing new for my version of expressions.Till all that ash turned all my travel plans over, I was quite the humming bird - whizzing around, humming gently, enjoying the good stuff at 40,000 feet. I found that in spite of what airlines may like to advertise, there is a massive difference in what they deliver, especially when you are airborne. I mean, you don't have much choice there then, do you? Even if you don't like the Blinis or the Crème Brulée, what will you do, stage a walkout?The reason why I am analysing beverages on board is because in an airplane, a lot changes. The air for one, is being recirculated, again and again, being passed through filters, and kept to drier than normal. This quick exchange arid environ makes wines lose smells faster than normal. Also, the constant engine vibrations will send the same tiny tremors constantly through the wine even as it rests on your dinner tray. These can sometimes shock a wine and make it go dormant—in both taste and flavour. Lastly, our own senses and perceptions are a tad altered, if not compromised, and hence the tactile are reduced even though the kick is doubled. It is thus important to get wines that are not too heady and yet aromatic and flavourful.Most airlines nowadays take their food and beverage very seriously. They have teams of experts sit in and figure out what needs to be done. Singapore Airlines is the first one to come to my mind. Having three very respected names from the wine world concurring to decide what their passengers should enjoy in high-altitude transit is a commendable exercise and sensible to be left to the experts. The food, too, is decided in a similar fashion, with chefs from all over the world contributing their style of cooking or cuisine, all with the requisite adaptability measures. Little doubt then when I flew with them recently for a holiday package that too is organised by Singapore Airlines (for people who may wish to use their carriers and holiday planning services), the food and wine at every outlet was never far from outstanding.Some others have also found innovative ways to keep interests peaked. Swiss International Airlines periodically involves local chefs from different parts of their home country, promoting the cuisine and wines from that region, as also the tourism aspects of the related cities. This is almost an advantage that they have over airlines from non-wine producing countries, but nothing that will make or break a decision.Qantas also does a splendid job of putting the high in high-flyers, but not in just the intoxicating sense. They have some splendid wines and the variety is rich. Best yet, they are not shy of serving French wines such as Champagne on board their flights. It just shows that they aspire to offer quality and do not let patriotism cloud over their professional stance. I wait for the day when Air France will serve Spanish cava on their flights. And this is just the tip of the wing. As the world continues to shrink, developing countries prosper, travel, and become more aware, the competition is always on the brink of a boil. Airlines have to constantly find new and innovative ways to retain business. Food and wine then is not just a refreshment plan, it is perhaps one of the most crucial aspects of their greatest marketing plan yet to be unleashed.The writer is a sommelier

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